Crafting a garment can be incredibly rewarding, and one of the essential skills I love to share is sewing facings for necklines and armholes. These neat finishes not only give your creations a professional look but also ensure durability and comfort.
Materials and Tools
Materials
- Fabric: Select a fabric that matches your garment, such as cotton, linen, or silk. I typically use 1/4 yard for each facing.
- Interfacing: Choose a lightweight fusible interfacing to provide structure. A standard pack contains 5 sheets, sufficient for multiple projects.
- Matching Thread: I use high-quality polyester thread to ensure durability and color consistency.
Tools
- Sewing Machine: A reliable sewing machine with adjustable settings ensures precise stitching.
- Scissors: Invest in sharp fabric scissors for clean, accurate cuts.
- Pins: Use fine-point pins to secure fabric layers without leaving marks.
- Measuring Tape: A flexible measuring tape helps achieve accurate dimensions for facings.
- Rotary Cutter (Optional): For faster and more precise fabric cutting, a rotary cutter paired with a cutting mat is beneficial.
Choosing the Right Fabric
Selecting the appropriate fabric ensures your facings are both functional and aesthetically pleasing. Here are key factors to consider:
Fabric Weight
Lightweight fabrics like cotton voile and silk chiffon provide a smooth finish without adding bulk. Medium-weight options such as polyester crepe offer more structure, while heavyweight fabrics like twill enhance durability.
Fabric Type
Different fabrics behave uniquely when sewn. Cotton offers versatility and ease of handling, silk delivers a luxurious drape, and linen provides breathability. Choose a fabric that complements your garment’s main material for a cohesive look.
Color and Pattern
Match or contrast the facing color with your garment. Solid colors like black or white blend seamlessly, while patterned fabrics such as stripes or florals add visual interest. Ensure patterns align correctly at seams for a professional appearance.
Stretch and Drape
Assess the fabric’s flexibility. Stretch fabrics like jersey adapt well to curves, while non-stretch options like satin maintain a crisp edge. Consider the garment’s movement to select a fabric that enhances comfort and fit.
Compatibility with Main Fabric
Ensure the facing fabric works harmoniously with the main garment fabric. For instance, pair a smooth facing like cotton voile with a structured dress fabric to balance flexibility and support. Compatibility prevents puckering and ensures longevity.
Example Fabrics for Facings
| Fabric Type | Weight | Best Uses |
|---|---|---|
| Cotton Voile | Lightweight | Blouses, lightweight dresses |
| Polyester Crepe | Medium-weight | Structured skirts, jackets |
| Twill | Heavyweight | Outerwear, tailored garments |
| Silk Chiffon | Lightweight | Evening wear, delicate blouses |
| Linen | Medium-weight | Summer garments, breathable tops |
Choosing the right fabric involves evaluating these factors to achieve a balanced and durable finish for your garment’s necklines and armholes.
Preparing the Facing
Preparing the facing correctly ensures a professional finish for your garment. Follow these steps to cut and mark your fabric accurately.
Cutting the Fabric
Accurate cutting is crucial for a smooth neckline and armhole. Start by laying your fabric flat on a cutting surface. Use sharp fabric scissors or a rotary cutter for precise edges. Cut two facing pieces, adding a 1/4-inch seam allowance around the neckline and armhole curves. Ensure both pieces match exactly by aligning patterns or grainlines before cutting.
Marking the Neckline and Armhole
Marking helps align the facing correctly with the garment. Place the facing pieces on the wrong side of the main fabric. Use tailor’s chalk or fabric markers to trace the neckline and armhole outlines. Align the notches and grainlines for accurate placement. Double-check measurements to ensure symmetry and proper fit before sewing.
Sewing the Facing
With the facing pieces cut and marked, it’s time to bring everything together. Sewing the facing ensures a clean and durable finish for your neckline and armholes.
Assembling the Pieces
First, place the two facing pieces right sides together. Align the edges precisely to prevent any puckering. Pin the pieces securely using fine-point pins spaced every 1/2 inch. Start sewing along the edge with a 1/4-inch seam allowance, using a straight stitch for strength. Backstitch at both ends to reinforce the seams. Press the seam open with an iron to create a flat surface, which helps in attaching the facing smoothly to the garment.
Attaching to the Garment
Align the assembled facing with the garment’s neckline or armhole, ensuring the seams match perfectly. Pin the facing in place, starting from the center and working outward to maintain symmetry. Sew the facing to the garment using a matching polyester thread, maintaining a consistent 1/4-inch seam allowance. After sewing, trim any excess fabric and clip the curves carefully to prevent bulk. Finally, press the facing neatly against the garment for a professional, polished look.
Finishing Touches
After attaching the facings, perfect the final details to ensure a professional finish.
- Press the seam: Use an iron on the appropriate setting to smooth the seam, enhancing the garment’s shape.
- Trim excess threads: Remove loose threads with small scissors to prevent fraying and maintain a clean look.
- Inspect the alignment: Check that the facings are evenly attached and that the neckline or armhole aligns correctly with the garment.
- Make adjustments if needed: If any misalignments exist, carefully adjust and resew the affected areas.
- Final press: Iron the entire area once more to set all seams and lay the fabric flat, giving the garment a polished appearance.
Conclusion
Sewing facings for necklines and armholes really transforms your garments giving them that polished look. I enjoy how selecting the right fabrics and taking the time to prepare carefully makes everything fall into place. While it might seem tricky at first practicing these steps helps build confidence and skill. Watching your finished piece come together is so rewarding. Keep experimenting with different materials and techniques to find what suits your style best. Happy sewing!
